Line 3 refers to update. I just left the zip file named the way it was as per MEDM's instruction. I tried renaming as per your instructions and viola things worked exactly as the way they are suppose to. I am now at Android 4. A note for other who might read this and have the same issue. I am not sure if the upgrade would handle a ziped zip file but hear is exactly what I did.
I unzipped this file which gave me another zip file. I connected my tablet with the same usb cable I use for my android phone 4. Using my computer I copied the zip file I got from unzipping the first file and copied it to the SD card, and renamed it to update. The SD card I used came with a Mirror Cam I purchased but never worked so it did have three other directories at the root level. This did not seem to matter.
Power up the tablet by holding the power button and the volume down key top left of the tablet 7. When I felt the tablet vibrate I let go of the power button. Watch the cute android icon do his magic. The upgrade took about 5 minutes. Glad to hear it worked. Yeah, those machines would look for a file specifically called update.
If you miss any of those they would get confused. Some of the downloads Acer put on their site were already named right, some were named the version number, some had update. I think they had a different guy putting it together each time, and either no one made docs for the process or no one read the docs from their predecessor.
Click on "Like" if you find my answer useful or click on "Yes" if it answers your question. I understood from elsewhere that the A was simply too old to be of use- like me. I will try the steps that philetuswent thru and give this ol girl another try. Sign In or Register to comment.
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It even had intact warranty seals, which meant that it must be pretty much completely original. These have Varta 3. After removing the keyboard, RF shield, and internal 3. So, I set about cleaning it up. The first step was to remove the source of the corrosive material: the battery itself. I used a small pair of clippers to cut its three legs close to the PCB, taking care not to cause damage to the board — then, I pulled it off and put it straight in the bin.
The second step was to neutralise the remaining corrosive material. I removed the board from the case, removed all of the socketed ICs, and bathed it in white vinegar for a while to neutralise the alkali, scrubbing the most affected area with an ESD-safe brush — then I washed the board off with I carefully disposed of the vinegar and IPA solutions, then cleaned all of the IC sockets with contact cleaner and reinstalled the socketed ICs.
Finally, I desoldered the battery legs using my desoldering station a Duratool D and a large amount of leaded solder and rosin flux , necessary because the corroded material on the battery joints makes them difficult to remove. I scraped back the darkened solder mask on the battery joints, and tinned the bare copper with solder.
After this, the battery area looked pretty good no corroded ICs or components, no damaged traces or vias , and I was quietly confident that the system would work OK.
This fits in the original battery footprint, and is fitted with a diode to prevent the coin cell from being charged. The original internal 3. At this point I decided to just swap the entire drive unit out for an earlier and more reliable Chinon unit from a spare A, which seemed to work fine.
Now that the computer seemed to be working reliably, I wanted to perform some preventative maintenance to help keep it that way — specifically, by replacing all the electrolytic capacitors on the mainboard. These capacitors typically comprise aluminium windings insulated by a liquid electrolyte, which can dry out over time and negatively affect performance even failing dead short , or physically leak and cause corrosion to the PCB and surrounding components.
However, in this case the previous battery leakage may have compromised their performance, so I replaced them out of caution. April 7, at pm. Ian Hanson says:.
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